Visiting China: Xi-An

A fifteen hour train journey from Beijing (which in itself is an experience, and can be quite an amazing one, with views across so much of the Chinese countryside – just make sure you invest in a bed not a seat) is the city of Xi’an.

Here you can pay a visit to see the awesome Terracotta Army, made by Qin Shi Huang, the first Emperor of China, who had them made to take care of him after his death.

It’s a very cosmopolitan city, with a startling mixture of Eastern and Western influences.  In one part of the city one can find a Mongolian food market with rather attractive (and delicious) quail eggs on sticks with satay and chilli dips and all sorts of meat (including rat and dog).  In another part you can find more Western shops like Walmart, if you’re in need of a decent razor, for example. 

There are tours of the city available, but in view of the rather limited English possessed by most of the guides you might be as well to explore on your own with a good guidebook. 

It’s a walled city that is completely square, with four main roads running at right angles from and to the North, South, East and West gates.  It’s possible to hire bicycles and cycle around the top of the wall, which is a good way of getting your bearings and also seeing parts of the city you might otherwise miss. 

Two large landmark buildings that are worth seeing are the Big Goose and Little Goose Pagodas, which are large temples.  The Big Goose Pagoda has a fountain display with lights and music every night at 7pm. 

It’s a lovely city for exploring back streets, experiencing a more traditional side of China, and with plenty of mountain treks starting just outside the city wall it’s good for experiencing stunning views too.